Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Alpine summit in Valais, Switzerland
Mont Blanc de Cheilon is a 3,870-meter peak in the Pennine Alps with steep rock faces and four glaciers on its slopes. The mountain sits in a region surrounded by other major Alpine summits and offers different climbing routes for various skill levels.
The mountain was first successfully climbed in 1865 when mountaineers reached the summit under difficult conditions. This early ascent put the peak on the map as a destination for Alpine adventure.
The name Cheilon, also written Seilon, belongs to the glacier and the Col de Cheilon (3,243 m) that climbers cross on the normal route to the summit. The mountain closes the Val des Dix, and both approach huts carry the valley's name: the Cabane des Dix at 2,928 m and the Cabane des Vignettes at 3,158 m. The first ascent was made by Johann Jakob Weilenmann and J. Felley on 11 September 1865.
The normal route starts from the Cabane des Dix (2,928 m) or the Cabane des Vignettes (3,158 m), crosses the Col de Cheilon (3,243 m) and follows the west ridge, with passages of grade II near the top. The east-ridge traverse descends to the Col de la Serpentine (3,547 m) via the eastern arm of the Cheilon Glacier. In winter the west ridge is skied, with the final metres on foot.
The north face drops from the summit to the Cheilon Glacier, which forms from two arms at its base. The normal route avoids this wall, reaching the top via the Col de Cheilon (3,243 m) and the west ridge, with short passages of grade II near the summit.
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