Osijek

Osijek is the administrative seat of Osijek-Baranja County in eastern Croatia, positioned where the Drava River curves through flat plains and farmland. The layout divides into Tvrda, a walled quarter with low brick buildings around open squares, and newer districts with tree-lined avenues and modernist housing blocks.

The Romans founded a garrison here in 133, and after centuries of shifting control, the Habsburgs built a fortified town to guard the frontier against Ottoman advances. The withdrawal of Turkish forces in the 18th century allowed the construction of the baroque stronghold that defines Tvrda today.

The name derives from a Slavic word for ebb, referring to its riverside setting, while locals gather along the promenade that follows the Drava for evening walks and summer festivals. The waterfront becomes a meeting place where families cycle and fishermen cast their lines at dawn.

A small airport west of town offers flights to Zagreb and a few European cities, while a tram line connects the main neighborhoods and runs past the central squares. Walking covers most sights within Tvrda and the downtown area, as distances remain short and streets follow a grid.

A network of tunnels and cellars beneath Tvrda once served defense and storage, and guided tours now open sections to visitors who descend narrow staircases. The passages run under several blocks, linking barracks to outer bastions.