Ghent Kangri, Mountain peak in Saltoro Mountains, India
Ghent Kangri is a 7,401 m peak at the north end of the Saltoro Mountains, a Karakoram subrange, west of the Siachen Glacier near the Actual Ground Position Line between India and Pakistan. Its dark grey rock face is fractured into steep vertical ridges and gullies, with snow and ice filling the upper slopes and crevices. The summit is pointed and asymmetrical, a higher ridge on the right and a lower shoulder on the left, above snow-dusted outcrops.
The mountain was first summited in 1961 by an Austrian climbing expedition that carefully planned the ascent with multiple high-altitude camps. This early success marked an important achievement in high-altitude mountaineering during that era.
Ghent Kangri lies west of the Siachen Glacier, close to the Actual Ground Position Line between India and Pakistan. The peak appears on maps under both the English name Ghent Kangri and the Chinese name 根特崗日峰, reflecting the competing claims over the Saltoro Mountains.
Climbing this summit requires significant mountaineering experience and proficiency with glacier travel and ice climbing at extreme altitudes. Access involves navigating multiple glacier sections with proper preparation for harsh conditions and the physical demands of high-altitude climbing.
Ghent Kangri was first climbed on 4 June 1961 by Wolfgang Axt, a member of an Austrian expedition led by Erich Waschak, who reached the summit alone above the high camp via the West Ridge. The Himalayan Index records only three further ascents, in 1977, 1980 and 1984.
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