North Palisade, Mountain summit in Sierra Nevada, California, United States.
North Palisade is a 4,343-meter peak on the Inyo–Fresno county line, the highest summit of the Palisades group and the third-highest in the Sierra Nevada. Its northeast flank holds the Palisade Glacier and several rock climbing routes, including the U-Notch and V-Notch couloirs. The summit ridge carries subsidiary peaks such as Starlight Peak, with its 6-meter Milk Bottle rock pillar.
The first ascent was made on July 25, 1903, by James S. Hutchinson, Joseph Nisbet LeConte and James K. Moffitt. They scouted routes from Marion Peak and Mount Sill, then climbed the southwest chute of the U Notch, passing chockstones with class 4 moves before reaching the southeast ridge. LeConte wrote that he called the peak merely the North Palisade, and the name has been official since.
The name North Palisade was settled after the 1903 first ascent, when Joseph LeConte wrote that Dusy's name should go to a "less imposing mass". Earlier labels included Northwest Palisade (Wheeler Survey, 1878) and Dusy's Peak (1879). A 2009 proposal to rename it Brower Palisade drew significant opposition.
Access begins from Owens Valley by driving through Big Pine to Glacier Lodge, then following the North Fork of Big Pine Creek trail into the higher elevations. Climbers should arrive well-prepared with proper gear and experience navigating alpine terrain, as weather conditions can change rapidly at these heights.
The mountain serves as the center of a complex peak system with several adjacent summits including Polemonium Peak, Starlight Peak, and Thunderbolt Peak within close range. Each of these neighboring peaks presents climbers with different technical challenges and route options suited to varying levels of experience.
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