The Nose, Vertical climbing route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, US.
The Nose is a big wall climbing route up the prow between the Southwest and Southeast faces of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California. It runs about 1,000 metres, or thirty rope lengths, to the summit, and was originally rated VI, 5.10/A3. A climber on the pale grey granite holds a rope running diagonally down to a dark haul bag resting on the rock below.
Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore reached the summit in 1958 after 47 days, opening access to the wall. Lynn Hill completed the first free ascent in 1993, climbing all passages without artificial aid.
The climb passes through sections like the Stovelegs crack, the King Swing pendulum, and the horizontal Great Roof traverse. These passages require different skills and shape the rhythm of the ascent through changing rock formations.
Climbers need multiple sets of specialized equipment like nuts and cams ranging from 0.5 to 3.5 inches, plus enough water for multi-day ascents. Most teams split the route over several days and sleep in portable ledges attached to the wall.
The ascent moves through changing rock structures, from wide cracks to smooth slabs, each requiring its own set of movements. Some pitches involve sideways swings or horizontal traverses that differ from straightforward upward climbing.
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