The Nose

The Nose is a route that extends 2900 feet up the central edge of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California. It connects 31 pitches through granite walls, cracks and technical sections that build on one another.

Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore reached the summit in 1958 after 47 days, opening access to the wall. Lynn Hill completed the first free ascent in 1993, climbing all passages without artificial aid.

The climb passes through sections like the Stovelegs crack, the King Swing pendulum, and the horizontal Great Roof traverse. These passages require different skills and shape the rhythm of the ascent through changing rock formations.

Climbers need multiple sets of specialized equipment like nuts and cams ranging from 0.5 to 3.5 inches, plus enough water for multi-day ascents. Most teams split the route over several days and sleep in portable ledges attached to the wall.

The ascent moves through changing rock structures, from wide cracks to smooth slabs, each requiring its own set of movements. Some pitches involve sideways swings or horizontal traverses that differ from straightforward upward climbing.