Strahlhorn, Alpine summit in Pennine Alps, Switzerland
The Strahlhorn is a 4,190 m summit in the Allalin group of the Pennine Alps, on the border between the municipalities of Saas-Almagell and Zermatt. It is the southernmost four-thousander of the glaciated chain separating the Mattertal from the Saastal. Its summit is ice-free only for the last few metres; the Allalingletscher reaches almost to the top.
The first ascent was made on 15 August 1854 by Christopher Smyth, Ulrich Lauener, Edmund J. Grenville and Franz-Josef Andenmatten. The route went from the Britannia Hut over the Adler Pass and along the west-northwest ridge. The mountain lies on the border between the municipalities of Saas-Almagell and Zermatt.
The name Strahlhorn comes from the German words for "beam" and "horn", referring to the mountain's pointed profile. The peak lies on the boundary between the municipalities of Saas-Almagell and Zermatt, and the normal route starts at the Britannia Hut, a base for guides and climbers. The first ascent was made on 15 August 1854 by Christopher Smyth, Ulrich Lauener, Edmund J. Grenville and Franz-Josef Andenmatten.
The normal route starts at the Britanniahütte (2,928 m), reached on foot from Saas-Fee via the Plattjen or from the Metro-Alpin lift; from the hut the path crosses the Allalingletscher to the Adlerpass (3,786 m) and follows the west-northwest ridge to the summit. All high routes are long and cross crevassed glaciers, so rope, crampons and glacier experience are needed. In winter the peak is climbed as a ski tour from the Britanniahütte or from Blauherd above Zermatt.
The Strahlhorn has three lesser-known namesakes in Switzerland, at 3,027, 3,194 and 3,200 metres. Its summit is almost entirely ice-covered: the Allalingletscher reaches nearly to the top, leaving only the uppermost metres free of ice. The mountain lies on the boundary between the municipalities of Saas-Almagell and Zermatt.
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