Egginer, Mountain summit in Valais, Switzerland
Egginer is a 3,367 m summit in the Pennine Alps above Saas-Fee in Valais. With the Mittaghorn it forms a rock ridge at the end of the Saas valley. Its flanks are friable, while the rock on the crests is solid.
The Britanniahütte mountain hut was established near Egginer to provide shelter for mountaineers exploring the Valais region. This refuge network became essential infrastructure for climbers venturing into the high alpine terrain.
The rock routes on the south-east face, marked with names at their base and three to six pitches long, can be climbed from spring on in warm weather. They start just right of the Egginerjoch and are reached in 20 minutes from the Felskinn station (2,989 m) or from the Britanniahütte (3,030 m).
Climbing this summit requires alpine experience and technical gear such as ropes and ice axes for the ridge section. The best time to attempt the ascent is during the warmer months when snow conditions are more stable and the routes are safer.
The rock of the ice-free summit is crumbly on its flanks but solid along the crests, which is why the normal route from Plattjen (3½ hours) or the Britanniahütte (2½ hours) climbs the south-east flank over grade II ground. In the south-east wall, half a dozen equipped climbing routes, three to six pitches long, start just right of the Egginerjoch and can be reached in 20 minutes from Felskinn station at 2,989 m.
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