Lenzspitze, Mountain summit in Saas Valley, Switzerland

Lenzspitze is a mountain summit in the Saas Valley that rises between surrounding Alpine peaks. The terrain here features steep rock faces, glaciers, and narrow ridges typical of this high mountain range.

The first ascent was made in August 1870 by Clinton Thomas Dent with guides Alexander Burgener and a porter, Franz Burgener, via the north-east face to the Nadeljoch and then the north-west ridge; that route is rarely used today. The east-north-east ridge from the Mischabel Hut was first climbed on 3 August 1882 by William Woodman Goodman with guides Ambros Supersaxo and Theodor Andenmatten. The north-east ice face was first climbed on 7 July 1911 by Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg with Oskar and Othmar Supersaxo.

The north-east face, a 500-metre ice wall at 50 to 55 degrees, earned the nickname "Dreieselwand" (three-sweat wall) after the step-cutting of its first ascent on 7 July 1911 by Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg with guides Oskar and Othmar Supersaxo. The mountain is also called Südlenz, and its north-west ridge (grade III) forms the first section of the Nadelgrat traverse toward the Nadelhorn.

Visitors reach this mountain from Saas-Fee and should bring high-altitude climbing gear and technical skills. Hiring an experienced mountain guide is strongly advised for safety.

The north-east face, a 500-metre ice wall inclined at up to 56 degrees, was first climbed on 7 July 1911 by Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg with Oskar and Othmar Supersaxo, who cut steps the whole way; the effort earned it the nickname "Dreieselwand". Heini Holzer descended the face on skis on 22 July 1972.