Täschhorn, Mountain summit in Valais, Switzerland
The Täschhorn is a summit in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland, rising to 4,491 meters (14,734 feet) with three steep rock faces pointing in different directions. Each face overlooks a different valley, Saas Fee, Täsch, and Täschalp, along with the glaciers that fill the spaces between them.
The first ascent took place on July 30, 1862, when John Llewelyn Davies reached the top with J.W. Hayward and three guides via the Kin Face. The climb happened during a period when many of the great Pennine summits were being reached for the first time.
The Täschhorn is normally climbed via the Mischabelgrat, a route graded AD that starts from the Mischabeljoch bivouac hut. The continuation to the Dom, known as the Täschhorn–Dom traverse, was described by alpine guide Martin Moran as "one of the most demanding of the grandes courses in the Alps".
The usual approach is via the Mischabeljoch bivouac hut at the foot of the Mischabelgrat, reached from the Täschhütte above Täsch; the ridge itself takes 4 to 5 hours to the summit. The Kin Face is reached from the Kinhütte, where a via ferrata on the Kinfelsen ridge has replaced the long approach from the Domhütte. Allow 3.5 to 4 hours to descend to the Mischabeljoch if not continuing to the Dom.
The south-west face was first climbed on 11 August 1906 by the 19-year-old guide Franz Lochmatter, his brother Josef and client Valentine John Eustace Ryan, with Geoffrey Winthrop Young and Josef Knubel also in the party. Falls on fragile, unprotectable mixed ground made it one of the most epic adventures in Alpine mountaineering, and it was not repeated until 37 years later.
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