Illiniza volcano

Illiniza volcano in Cotopaxi Province consists of two peaks: the southern summit stands at 5,248 meters (17,212 feet) and the northern at 5,126 meters (16,817 feet), with a saddle roughly one kilometer wide separating them. Together they form a striking landmark in the Andes.

European mountaineers first reached the southern summit in 1880, establishing these peaks as notable climbing objectives. The northern summit was later climbed by other explorers as mountaineering activity increased across the region.

The name Illiniza comes from the Kunza language, meaning masculine hill, and reflects how indigenous communities have long viewed this mountain as central to their world. Local people still speak of the peaks with respect tied to their cultural roots.

A mountain refuge between the two peaks offers basic facilities including stoves and bunk beds for overnight stays, helping climbers plan their approach. The southern summit demands technical gear and experience, while the northern peak has easier rock climbing routes for less experienced mountaineers.

The southern peak remains covered by glaciers year-round, making it significantly more challenging than its northern neighbor and requiring specialized ice climbing gear. This icy terrain is what draws experienced mountaineers specifically to that side.