Malte-Brun, Alpine summit in Southern Alps, New Zealand.
Malte Brun is the highest peak of the Malte Brun Range, rising to 3,199 metres between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers in New Zealand's Southern Alps, about 13 km northeast of Aoraki/Mount Cook. The Malte Brun Glacier lies on its northwest flank, and the Malte Brun Pass crosses the Beetham Glacier to the south. Julius von Haast named the mountain after geographer Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun.
The peak was named after French geographer Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun and first climbed in 1894, during a period when European explorers were actively mapping this part of the Southern Alps. The naming reflects the influence that European geography had on how mountains in this region were documented and recorded.
The mountain's name honours French geographer Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, given by Julius von Haast. Tom Fyfe made the first ascent alone on 7 March 1894; in 1909 Freda Du Faur became the first woman on the summit and completed the first traverse. The West Ridge, graded 3+, is the classic line, and its "Cheval" section is crossed by straddling the knife-edge ridge.
All routes require technical experience and equipment. The West Ridge is graded NZ Alpine 3+, the South Ridge 3, and the South Face 4 to 4+. Two huts once served the lower slopes: the Beetham hut in the Beetham Valley, destroyed by an avalanche in the early 1990s, and the Malte Brun Hut on moraine terraces above the Tasman Glacier.
Along the West Ridge route, there is a passage called the Cheval where climbers must straddle and balance on a sharp, narrow rock fin. This moment stands out for most people who attempt the route because it demands a type of balance that is quite different from standard climbing moves.
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