Sexegertenspitze, Mountain summit in the Ötztal Alps, Tyrol, Austria

The Sexegertenspitze is a double-peaked mountain in the Weißkamm of the Ötztal Alps, with a southern summit at 3,424 m and a northern summit at 3,348 m, separated by a small saddle and covered by a firn cap. The peaks rise about 10 km southwest of Mittelberg in the Pitztal and 15 km north of Kurzras in South Tyrol. The Wannetferner glacier reaches the west flank, which is inclined up to 50° and about 300 m high.

The first documented ascent took place in the late 1800s, beginning an era of mountaineering activity in this part of the Ötztal Alps. The peak has since become a testing ground for climbers seeking to develop their skills on glaciers and high alpine terrain.

The two summits were first climbed on 29 July 1887 by Heinrich Heß and Ludwig Purtscheller, who traversed from the Hochvernagtspitze along the Weißkamm ridge. Their route, part of a long walk from the Wildspitze to the Hintere Ölgrubenspitze, is still the reference for today's climbers, who approach via the Sexegertenferner and the Wannetjoch.

Climbing requires glacier experience and proper equipment including crampons and rope, as crevasses present ongoing hazards on the route. The ascent typically starts from Taschachhaus mountain hut at approximately 2,434 meters elevation, with a glacier trail leading to the summit.

The two summits, about 500 metres apart, are separated by a small saddle and both lie under a firn cap. The northwest ridge of the northern summit is pronounced, and the first ascent of both peaks was made on 29 July 1887 by Heinrich Heß and Ludwig Purtscheller during a traverse from the Hochvernagtspitze.