Pizzo Rotondo, Alpine summit in Valais and Ticino, Switzerland.
Pizzo Rotondo is a 3,192-meter summit in the Lepontine Alps, located between Nufenen Pass and Lukmanier Pass. The peak marks the border between Valais and Ticino and stands as the highest point in this section of the range.
Viktor Haller and his guides made the first ascent on August 5, 1869, starting from Bedretto in Ticino over the east face and the Pesciora glacier, now nearly gone. Four days later F. Schläpfer, with guides Rudolf Elmer and Johann Kreuzer, climbed from Oberwald via the Geren valley and Geren glacier; only Elmer and Kreuzer continued over to the higher southern summit.
The triple watershed of the Rhone, Po and Rhine basins lies not on Pizzo Rotondo but about two kilometres north-east, at the Witenwasserenstock, to which the Gerengletscher on the north side extends. The name Rotondo, "round", refers to the mountain's shape. The massif separates the upper Rhone valley in Valais from the upper Ticino valley.
The normal route reaches the summit via the south ridge at difficulty grade WS+, so climbers need sure footing on steep, partly exposed ground. The Gerengletscher on the north side and the smaller Ghiacciaio del Pizzo Rotondo near Passo di Rotondo on the south side lie on the approaches. Allow for sudden weather changes at this altitude.
The triple watershed between the Rhone, Po and Rhine basins lies not on Pizzo Rotondo but about two kilometres north-east, at the Witenwasserenstock, to which the Gerengletscher extends. The first ascent, on 5 August 1869 by Viktor Haller and his guides from Bedretto, went over the east face and the Pesciora glacier, now nearly gone.
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