Olan, Alpine summit in Écrins National Park, France
Olan is an alpine summit in Ecrins National Park with three distinct peaks, the highest reaching 3,564 meters (11,693 feet) above sea level. The mountain overlooks three major valleys and features steep rock faces with several established climbing routes of varying difficulty.
The central summit (3,558 m) was first climbed on 8 July 1875 by Richard Pendlebury with the Tyrolean guides Gabriel and Josef Spechtenhauser; Arthur Cust turned back below the top, and a lightning storm forced a hasty descent. On 29 June 1877 W. A. B. Coolidge and Christian and Ulrich Almer reached the central summit and crossed in 55 minutes to the north summit (3,564 m). Pierre Gaspard, Christophe Roderon and Cust reached the north summit by a new route over the Glacier des Sellettes on 8 August 1880.
The Olan's classic routes are graded and named in the climbing lexicon: the north ridge (AD), Couzy-Desmaison (ED), Devies-Gervasutti (TD) and Candau ridge (D) on the Font-Turbat side, and the bolted Pilier Nounours (TD) on the south-west face. The 1875 and 1877 first ascents gave the central and north summits the names Cime Pendlebury and Cime Coolidge.
Font-Turbat refuge offers shelter and serves as the main base for climbers tackling the north face routes. Most visitors need solid mountaineering experience and should plan their approach during stable weather windows.
The Olan is the westernmost summit above 3,500 metres in the Écrins massif and in the entire Alps. Its granite base carries a gneiss cap that is clearly visible from afar on the north-west face, seen from the Font-Turbat refuge. The north summit, the highest at 3,564 metres, was measured by Arthur Cust as about 10 feet higher than the central peak.
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