Mont Gioberney, Alpine summit in Écrins National Park, France
Mont Gioberney is an alpine summit reaching 3351 meters in the Écrins mountain range. The peak is defined by steep rocky walls and extensive glaciers that surround its cone-shaped form.
The sources record no 1861 ascent by Edward Whymper. The documented climbing event is the summer 1958 first ascent of the north ice wall rising from the Glacier du Says, made by Polish alpinists Maciej Bernadt, Adam Lenczowski, Władysław Prokopek and Janusz Szczęsny. The normal route from the refuge de la Pilatte climbs the east slope to the Col du Gioberney (3233 m) and then the south ridge.
The summit sits on the border between the Isère and Hautes-Alpes departments, and the ridge line from Col du Says to Col du Gioberney marks that boundary. The two glaciers below, Glacier du Says and Glacier de la Pilatte, feed the upper Vénéon valley. In summer 1958, Polish climbers Maciej Bernadt, Adam Lenczowski, Władysław Prokopek and Janusz Szczęsny climbed the north ice wall rising from the Glacier du Says.
Climbing this peak demands full mountaineering equipment and solid alpine skills. The Pilatte mountain refuge functions as the main base for planning and launching summit attempts.
Mont Gioberney marks the border between Isère and Hautes-Alpes: the departmental line runs from Col du Says in the northeast to Col du Gioberney in the south. Its north face, an ice wall rising from the Glacier du Says, was climbed in summer 1958 by Polish alpinists Maciej Bernadt, Adam Lenczowski, Władysław Prokopek and Janusz Szczęsny.
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