Pic Sans Nom, Alpine summit in Hautes-Alpes, France
Pic Sans Nom is an alpine summit in the Hautes-Alpes that rises to 3,913 meters within the Massif des Écrins range. Steep northern rock faces and glaciers define its appearance from all approaches.
The first ascent was completed in 1877 by a party of four climbers including J.-B. Colgrove and Richard Pendlebury. This late 19th-century success introduced the mountain to the climbing world.
In the 1860s and 1870s climbers confused the peak with the Ailefroide; Francis Fox Tuckett called it the "crête du Grand Pelvoux" and Robert Cradock Nichols the "pinacles du Mont-Pelvoux". Edward Whymper first wrote of a "montagne Sans Nom", then "pic Sans Nom". When the Club alpin français proposed "pic Salvador-Guillemin" after the first French summiters, Coolidge settled the matter in favour of Pic Sans Nom. An Aiguille Sans Nom stands nearby.
The normal route is not the safest line: snow and rock are delicate there, it sees few parties and is mostly used as the descent for harder itineraries. The southern slopes, reached via the Glacier du Coup de Sabre and the Glacier de Sialouze, give the only relatively easy access.
The mountain lost height through landslides: one in 1860 removed 15 metres, and rockfalls triggered by the 1905 Chamonix earthquake lowered it by a further 9 metres. Its name was settled by the American climber W. A. B. Coolidge, who rejected the French proposal of pic Salvador-Guillemin in favour of pic Sans Nom.
The community of curious travelers
AroundUs brings together thousands of curated places, local tips, and hidden gems, enriched daily by 93,923 contributors worldwide.