Roche de la Muzelle, Mountain summit in Isère, France
Roche de la Muzelle is a 3,465-metre summit in the western part of the Massif des Écrins, visible from afar as a landmark at the entrance to the Oisans. Its north side forms a pyramid, and in winter a shadow play on a rock face creates the so-called "Œil de la Muzelle"; in summer two vertical rock semicircles mark the same spot. A glacier lies on the northwest face above the Œil, and the peak overlooks the Muzelle, Lanchâtra and Valsenestre valleys.
The first ascent of the northeast ridge, the normal route, was made on 2 July 1875 by William Auguste Coolidge with Christian and Ulrich Almer. The northwest couloir was first climbed on 27 September 1969 by Éric Durdan and Stéphane Moreau, and the central couloir, rated D, by Éric and Yves Durdan on 26 June 1973.
The peak's name comes from the Muzelle valley and lake below its northwest face, and it gave its name to the Avenue de la Muzelle, the main street of Les Deux Alpes. From that avenue the mountain's pyramid and its "eye" — a shadow play on a rock wall in winter, two vertical rock half-circles in summer — are clearly seen.
Start your climb from a mountain refuge at roughly 2,115 meters elevation, ascending through grassy slopes before reaching glacier terrain. The best climbing season runs from summer through early fall when glacier conditions are more stable and safer for travel.
From the avenue de la Muzelle in Les Deux Alpes, the peak's pyramid shape frames an "œil": a shadow play on a rock face that forms two vertical half-circles in summer. A glacier lies on the northwest face above the Œil de la Muzelle.
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