Yutmaru Sar

Yutmaru Sar is a mountain summit in the Karakoram range that rises to 7,330 meters, positioned between Kanjut Sar and the vast Hispar Glacier. The peak features steep snow and rock formations that dominate the landscape of this remote high-altitude area.

The peak was first summited in July 1981 by a Japanese mountaineering expedition led by Tadao Sugimoto, who established three camps during their ascent. This successful climb marked the first documented reaching of this remote Karakoram summit.

The mountain stands within the Gilgit-Baltistan region, where local communities maintain traditions of mountain guidance and expedition support through generations of experience.

Climbing attempts require permits from Pakistani authorities and extensive advance planning, typically starting from the base camp at Yutmaru Glacier. The site demands physical preparation for high altitude conditions and complex logistics throughout the expedition.

The north ridge route involves technical climbing through snowfields with a high-altitude bivouac required during summit pushes. This challenging approach makes it notably different from more direct routes available on neighboring peaks.