Dykhtau, Mountain summit in Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia
Dykhtau is a mountain summit in the Caucasus located in Russia, rising to about 5,200 meters with steep rock walls and glaciated slopes. Access takes place primarily by the North Ridge route, which demands several days of climbing from a lower base camp.
British mountaineer Albert Mummery and Swiss guide Heinrich Zurfluh reached the summit in 1888 in what is recorded as the first ascent of the mountain. This climb took place during a period when European mountaineers were increasingly exploring high peaks in the region.
The name Dykhtau comes from Turkic languages and describes the jagged features of the peak in local speech. This name reflects the raw character of the mountain that climbers encounter during their ascent.
The climb starts from a base camp at lower elevation and crosses steep snowfields and rocky terrain that demand careful footwork and balance. The best climbing season falls during the warmer months when snow conditions stabilize and the route becomes more manageable.
The mountain stands as the second-highest in Russia and Europe, with a prominence of about 2,000 meters above its neighboring peaks. This quality makes it one of the most dominant features in the southern Caucasus, where it towers over surrounding summits.
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