Alsaray Market, Traditional market in central Baghdad, Iraq

Alsaray Market is a traditional marketplace in central Baghdad with corridors lined by stalls selling textiles, spices, crafts, books, and household goods. The layout follows an old pattern where related items are grouped together in different sections, making it easier for shoppers to navigate and find what they need.

The market dates to 1660, when its construction coincided with the Wazir Hasan Pasha Mosque, built by Hasan Pasha, son of Wazir Muhammad Pasha, in the Jaddat Hasan Pasha quarter. It was first called Suq al-Sarajin after the horse-saddle makers of the Ottoman era, and in the 15th century it was known as Suq al-Jabaqjiya, after pipe makers and leather craftsmen. It later became a stationery and schoolbook market at the end of Mutanabi Street.

The market serves as a gathering place where neighbors meet to shop and exchange news about their daily lives. People naturally gather in small groups near certain stalls, creating a social center that connects different parts of the city.

The market is a pedestrian lane about 300 metres long and no more than three metres wide, running off the end of Mutanabi Street near Rashid Street in the Jaddat Hasan Pasha quarter. Shops line both sides with stationery, so expect to walk single file when it fills up. The Qishla building stands opposite on Saray Street.

Many vendors have run their stalls for generations, building deep relationships with families who keep coming back over decades. This continuity gives the market a personal character that sets it apart from modern shopping centers.