Pollux, Mountain peak in Pennine Alps, Switzerland and Italy
Pollux is a 4,089 m summit in the Pennine Alps on the Swiss-Italian border, the lower of the twin peaks Castor and Pollux. It rises between the Breithorn massif and the Liskamm, separated from Castor by the Zwillingsjoch (Passo di Verra, 3,846 m). Its southwest ridge, the Via delle Roccette, is graded PD+ and leads past a statue of the Madonna at 3,991 m.
The mountain was first climbed in 1864 and has since been a destination for mountaineers from both nations. Its borderline location made it an important point in the history of how the Alps were explored and mapped by Switzerland and Italy.
Pollux and its neighbour Castor are named after the Dioscuri, the twin brothers of Greek myth; the pair's shape is clearest from the Swiss north side. Because Pollux is lower and less frequented by alpinists, it is regarded as the lesser twin.
Mountaineers typically take a cableway from the Klein Matterhorn area and base themselves at a nearby mountain hut before attempting the climb. The summer season offers the most stable conditions and easiest glacier access for reaching the top.
The north-northwest face route, Via Cametti-Raiteri, is graded D- and climbs entirely on snow at gradients up to 70 degrees. Roberto Zaninelli made its first solo ascent on 24 August 1989, starting from the Schwarztor at 3,725 m.
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