Huantsán, Mountain summit in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Huantsán is a four-peaked mountain in the Cordillera Blanca rising to 6,395 meters at its main summit, with three secondary peaks ranging between 5,913 and 6,270 meters. The formation features varied terrain and offers multiple climbing routes.
The first successful ascent occurred in 1952 when Lionel Terray, Cees Egeler, and Tom de Booy reached the main summit via the northwest ridge. This pioneering climb established the route as a classical approach to the mountain.
The peak sits within Huascarán National Park and forms part of the geological identity of the Ancash region. Local communities and climbers connect this place to the alpine traditions of the high Andes.
The north-northwest ridge route demands technical climbing ability with steep sections and mixed terrain. Climbers should bring solid alpine experience and assess local conditions before attempting this approach.
Slovenian climbers completed a direct route on the North Face in 1999 by climbing exclusively at night. This nocturnal ascent shows the creative strategies alpinists use to manage challenging mountain conditions.
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