Bogda Peak, Summit in Xinjiang, China
Bogda Peak is a mountain in the eastern Tian Shan range that rises to 5445 meters with extremely steep slopes angled between 70 and 80 degrees. The snow-covered faces and exposed ridges present a technically demanding climbing environment.
Bogda Peak was first climbed in 1981 by an 11-person team from Kyoto. During the descent, climber Shiro Mizuko fell into a crevasse and died; her body was carried out by glacial meltwater more than a decade later, and a tombstone for her stands at the Bogda climbing base camp. On 4 August 1998, an amateur team from Urumqi made the first Chinese ascent. Later that month, three Hong Kong climbers went missing on the mountain; a 17-day search failed to find them, though a skeleton found in 2008 at 3,980 m was identified as one of them.
The name Bogda comes from Mongolian, meaning "holy mountain" or "dwelling place of the gods". A gravestone at the Bogda climbing base camp commemorates Japanese climber Shiraishi Mitsuko, who fell into a crevasse during the 1981 descent; her body was carried out by glacial meltwater more than a decade later.
Bogda Peak lies in Changji Prefecture, Xinjiang, at 43.8°N 88.3°E, and its slopes run at 70° to 80°, so parties need full mountaineering equipment and permits arranged in advance. The 1981 Kyoto team's descent cost the life of climber Shirazumi Mitsuko, whose fall into a crevasse was only recovered years later; a tombstone for her stands at the Bogda climbing base camp.
Bogda Peak is the 17th most prominent peak on Earth, with a prominence of 4,122 m. It is also the northernmost summit in Eurasia above 5,000 m. The first ascent in 1981 ended in loss: Kyoto climber Momoko Shiraishi fell into a crevasse during the descent, and her body was carried out by meltwater more than a decade later; a tombstone for her stands at the Bogda base camp.
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