Xuelian Feng, Mountain summit in Baicheng County, China.
Xuelian Feng is a mountain with five distinct summits in the Tian Shan range, with the north peak reaching about 6,627 meters (21,740 feet) at its highest point. The terrain consists of glacier fields and rocky ridges that define the shape of this alpine massif.
The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club made four expeditions to Xuelian Feng between 1986 and 1990. On 14 July 1989, Juniichi Shinozaki and Akihito Yamazaki first climbed the south summit. The main summit was reached on 19 August 1990 by eight members led by Kazuo Tukushima, via the Karakume Glacier and Junction Peak's southeast ridge. In 2009, Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand climbed the west ridge's north face and received the Piolet d'Or.
The Chinese name Xuelian Feng (Snow Lotus Peak) refers to the snow lotus, a white alpine flower of the high Tian Shan. The mountain also appears as Xueleng in some sources. Its five summits carry separate names, including Baiyu Feng (White Jade Peak) for the 6,422–6,438 m western neighbour.
The standard approach follows the Karakume Glacier, crossing a snow and rock ridge spanning about two kilometers to reach the main summit. The route demands mountaineering experience and stable weather conditions for safe progression.
The 2009 first ascent of the west ridge's north face, The Great White Jade Heist, by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand, earned the Piolet d'Or. The 2,650 m route is graded WI5, M6, V.
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