Lhotse Middle, Himalayan summit at Khumbu region border, Nepal and China
Lhotse Middle rises to about 8,410 meters (27,591 feet) and forms part of the massive Lhotse massif positioned between Mount Everest and the main Lhotse summit. The peak stands as a distinct climbing objective separate from the main summit, with its own technical requirements.
A Soviet expedition team first reached the summit in May 1990, establishing a new route through technically demanding sections. This ascent marked an important milestone in the exploration of the Lhotse massif.
The mountain's name comes from Tibetan, where Lho means south and Tse means peak, describing the southern position of this part of the range. Local guides and climbers still use this traditional naming when navigating the Lhotse region.
The best climbing season runs from April to May, when weather conditions are most stable. Mountaineers should rely on established base camps and proven route approaches similar to other summits in the Lhotse massif.
The route requires navigating a steep 600-meter (1,969 feet) couloir with rocky sections that lead to a small summit platform. This technical approach differs notably from routes to nearby peaks and presents unique challenges for experienced climbers.
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