Lhotse Middle, Himalayan summit at Khumbu region border, Nepal and China

Lhotse Middle is a Himalayan summit on the border between Nepal and China, forming part of the Lhotse massif that sits between Mount Everest and the main Lhotse peak. It is considered a separate climbing objective with its own technical demands, distinct from those of the nearby summits.

Lhotse Middle was first climbed in 2001 by a Russian expedition led by Nikolay Cherny and Victor Kozlov. On 23 May, Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov reached the top; further ascents followed on 24 and 27 May. Several members had tried in 1997, when bad weather forced them back and Vladimir Bashkirov died during the descent.

The name comes from Tibetan, where Lho means south and Tse means peak, pointing to the southern position of this part of the range. Local guides still use this traditional name when moving through the area.

The best window for climbing runs from April to May, when weather is most stable in this part of the Himalaya. Climbers use established base camps and follow route approaches similar to those used for other peaks in the massif.

The approach involves a steep couloir with rocky sections that opens onto a small summit platform at the top. This line is considered one of the most technically demanding in the entire massif, setting it apart from the routes used on nearby peaks.