Ama Dablam, Mountain peak in Sagarmatha Zone, Nepal
Ama Dablam is a 6814-meter summit in Sagarmatha Zone, eastern Nepal, located about 20 kilometers southwest of Mount Everest. The peak displays steep rock walls on three ridges and a characteristic glacier formation hanging from the northern face.
In March 1961, Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes completed the first ascent through the Southwest Ridge during the Silver Hut expedition. The route later became the preferred climbing line for mountaineers from different countries.
The name combines two Sherpa words: Ama meaning mother and Dablam referring to the ceremonial pendant containing sacred objects worn by Sherpa women. The hanging glacier on the northern face resembles the shape of this traditional pendant, giving the peak its appearance.
Climbers establish two camps along the Southwest Ridge route, requiring technical skills in rock climbing, ice climbing, and high-altitude mountaineering above 6000 meters (19685 feet). Most expeditions take place during the spring season between April and May when weather conditions are more stable.
The 1961 first ascent was made without a permit: the team of the Silver Hut expedition climbed while Edmund Hillary was away, and Nepal then ordered the expedition to stop and fined it before work could resume. The peak also appears on the one-rupee banknote.
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