Chamlang, Mountain summit in Sankhuwasabha, Nepal.
Chamlang is a mountain summit in the Mahalangur range reaching 7,319 meters with three distinct peaks stacked steeply one above another. The route to the summit demands technical climbing skills across steep sections that require careful route-finding.
The first successful ascent of Chamlang was made in 1962 by the Japanese Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido via the South Ridge route. This early achievement paved the way for future expeditions and contributed to the mountain's climbing history.
The name Chamlang comes from the Sherpa language and means 'big bird flapping wings', reflecting how the mountain's shape appears above the Hongu valley. Climbers can understand this naming when they see the distinctive peak profile from below.
Expeditions to Chamlang typically take around 35 days from start to return to base camp. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition and bring high-altitude experience, as the mountain offers extreme conditions at elevation.
The northwest face has a climbing route developed by German mountaineers that incorporates sections of the west face and was completed in 1991. This lesser-traveled route offers climbers an alternative to the more heavily used South Ridge.
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