Sumantri, Mountain summit in Central Papua, Indonesia
Sumantri is a mountain peak in the Sudirman Range standing at 4,870 meters with a distinctive northern face of vertical limestone cliffs. The summit sits as part of the Carstensz Massif, one of the major alpine formations in the region.
The peak was renamed in 1973 after being known as the Northwest summit of Ngga Pulu. It was first summited by Heinrich Harrer's expedition in 1962.
The mountain stands in the traditional lands of Papua's indigenous communities, requiring local permissions and respecting territorial protocols for access.
Plan for at least a seven-day expedition starting from nearby base villages with all gear carried by yourself. Temperature changes dramatically across the climb, from hot lowland conditions to freezing alpine conditions.
The north face rises about 600 meters and was soloed by mountaineer Reinhold Messner in 1971. This accomplishment remains a notable chapter in modern climbing history.
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