Sumantri, Mountain summit in Central Papua, Indonesia
Sumantri rises 4,870 metres in the western Sudirman Range of Central Papua, about 2 km northeast of Carstensz Pyramid. Its north side is a wall of limestone cliffs, part of the Noordwand of the Carstensz Massif, wrapping around to the east and west. Remnants of the Northwall Firn cling to its southern slopes.
Before 1973 the summit was called the NW summit of Ngga Pulu; the 1936 Carstensz Expedition named it the "Second Peak of the North Wall". Heinrich Harrer, Philip Temple, Russel Kippax and Bert Huizenga made the first ascent in February 1962, after climbing Carstensz Pyramid. Indonesia then renamed it after Sumantri Brodjonegoro, Minister of Energy and Mineral Resources, who died in office in 1973 aged 47.
The mountain stands in the traditional lands of Papua's indigenous communities, requiring local permissions and respecting territorial protocols for access.
Access to the Sudirman Range is complicated by the Papua conflict. The documented route to the summit is the south flank, which experienced alpinists find not especially difficult; no ascents of the north wall have been recorded. The north-east face drops roughly 700 metres.
The 600 m north cliff was first climbed by Reinhold Messner in a solo effort on 27 September 1971, after he had second-ascended the Carstensz Pyramid with his client Sergio Bigarella earlier in the week. A year later Leo Murray, Jack Baines and Dick Isherwood climbed both peaks of Ngga Pulu and found the peg Messner had left on top of the North Face of what they called Ngga Poloe, now Sumantri.
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