Kamet, Mountain summit in Chamoli district, India
Kamet is a mountain in the Zanskar Range in India, rising to about 7,756 meters with a pyramid-shaped form and two distinct summits. Three glaciers surround the massif and shape its appearance.
The mountain was first summited in 1931 by a British expedition led by Frank Smythe and Eric Shipton with local Sherpa guides. This ascent marked a key milestone in the climbing history of the region.
Frank Smythe traced the name to the Tibetan Kangmed, "the lower snows", from kang (snow) and med (little), set against the higher snows of the Kailash range 110 miles east. Charles Meade instead recorded the Tibetan Kangmen, "huge grandmother of a sacred snow chain". At dawn and dusk the copper-coloured rock on the hanging glaciers is said to glow like fire, giving the name Kamet the added sense of "glacier fire".
Climbers approach the summit from Joshimath town, with the best season between May and September when weather is more stable. Proper acclimatization and preparation are needed to manage the altitude and conditions.
Kamet was the first peak above 25,000 ft (7,620 m) to be climbed, in 1931, and stayed the highest summit reached until Nanda Devi five years later. Its name may come from the Tibetan Kangmed, "lower snows", as opposed to the higher snows of the Kailash range 110 miles east.
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