Changuch, Mountain summit in Munsiari tehsil, India
Changuch is a 6,322-metre Himalayan peak on the boundary of Pithoragarh and Bageshwar districts in Uttarakhand, India, standing above the Pindari Glacier. Its massif carries Traill's Pass, which links the Pindari valley with the Goriganga valley, and a ridge runs from the summit toward Nanda Kot.
Three expeditions through the Pindari valley failed in 1987, 1997 and 2007; the 1997 team, led by G. Murray, set a summit camp at 5,700 m before an avalanche killed two members at 5,200 m. On 9 June 2009 a British expedition led by Martin Moran, originally bound for Nanda Devi East, climbed from Lawan valley and reached the top. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Dhruv Joshi made the second ascent on 17 June 2011, the first from the Pindari glacier side.
Traill's pass on the Changuch massif links the Pindari valley with the Goriganga valley, and the 2009 British team reached the summit from Lawan Valley after crossing it. The 2009 West Bengal team also crossed Traill's pass en route, entering Lawan gad from the Pindar valley.
The main access routes go through Lawan Valley and via the Pindari Glacier, with Munsiyari serving as the nearest base for supplies and preparations. Visitors should be ready for high mountain conditions and changing weather throughout the year.
Changuch's first ascent was not the expedition's original goal: Martin Moran's British team had targeted Nanda Devi East in 2009, but difficult conditions and limited resources led them to switch to Changuch, which they climbed on 9 June 2009. The first Indian ascent followed on 17 June 2011, led by Dhruv Joshi via the Pindari glacier with five of eight members reaching the top and no high-altitude porters.
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